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DIRECTIONS

BASIC BUN DOUGH: See recipe for basic bun dough (recipe 21450) To make the bun dough first make the sponge: Combine the yeast, sugar, and warm water in a medium bowl. Stir to dissolve. Add the 3/4 cup flour and stir to mix. Seal airtight with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm (70 to 85°F) spot for about 10 minutes, until the mixture starts to rise.
To complete the dough: Combine the 3-1/4 cups flour, the sugar, shortening, and chives in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the flat paddle. Separately combine the cold water, milk, and egg, and stir them into the risen sponge. Scrape the sponge mixture into the flour mixture, then blend on slow speed to bring the dough together in a soft, ragged mass. If the dough is too wet and sticks badly to the paddle, sprinkle in a bit more flour to make it behave.
Turn the dough and any unincorporated bits from the bowl out onto a lightly floured board. Knead gently several times into a soft, lopsided ball. Do not overwork the dough. Put it in a large mixing bowl nearly double its size, then press a large piece of plastic wrap directly on the dough. Refrigerate the dough until it is 1-1/2 to 2 times its original size, at least 12 to 15 hours, or a full day if more convenient. The refrigeration will ensure that the dough rises slowly, resulting in a fine crumb and high loft for the buns. Allow dough to rest and rise.
To sear the duck: Heat a large wok or large heavy skillet over high heat until hot enough to evaporate a bead of water on contact. Add 1 tbsp of the oil and swirl to glaze the pan. Reduce the heat to moderate and add the duck legs in a single layer Sear, turning once or twice, until the fat is rendered and the skin is crispy and golden, about 4 minutes. Adjust the heat so that the skin crisps nicely without the fat smoking too much. Remove the duck legs to paper towels to drain. Wipe the pan and return it to the stove.
To braise the duck: Heat the pan over high heat until a bead of water evaporates on contact. Add 1 tbsp of the oil, swirl to glaze the pan, and reduce the heat to moderately high. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a bit of onion, add the onion, carrot, celery, ginger, and garlic to the pan. Toss until softened and browned at the edges, about 3 minutes, adjusting the heat to maintain a merry sizzle and drizzling a bit more oil down the side of the pan, if needed to prevent sticking. Add the lemongrass, peppercorns, and stock, and stir to combine. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Add the duck legs, adjust the heat to maintain a weak simmer, then braise the duck until the meat in the thickest part of the leg is very tender, about 1 hour. Remove the duck to a platter to cool. Once cool, strip the meat in large shreds from the bones and chop it coarsely. Strain the liquid; skim any fat from the surface. Reserve 2/3 cup for the seasonings. The rest can be seasoned and served alongside the buns as a light soup, or can be refrigerated or frozen for other cooking needs.
Combine the Aromatics in a small dish and cover until ready to use.
Combine the seasonings with the 2/3 cup reserved braising liquid in a bowl. Stir to blend, leaving the spoon in the bowl.
Heat a wok or large heavy skillet over high heat until hot enough to evaporate a bead of water on contact. Add the oil, swirl to glaze the pan, and reduce the heat to moderate. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a bit of minced ginger, add the Aromatics. Stir gently until fully fragrant, 20 to 30 seconds, adjusting the heat so they foam without browning. Add the celery, toss to combine, then lower the heat and let stew until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and toss until hot, then add the mustard greens and Napa cabbage and toss 2 minutes more. Add the chopped duck meat and toss to mix. Stir the seasonings and add them to the pan. Toss until the mixture is very hot and the liquids come to a simmer.
Quickly blend the cornstarch and the stock or water until smooth, then add it to the pan in a thin stream looped over the filling. Stir until the mixture is thick, heavy, and glossy, and a dab cooled briefly and then chewed leaves no floury taste on the roof of your mouth, about 5 minutes. Spread the filling in a thin layer on 2 large platters or a jelly roll pan. Refrigerate, uncovered, until thoroughly cold. Once cool, taste; add a dash more of this or that if needed. The cold filling may be sealed and refrigerated for a day or two before using.
To shape and fill the buns: Turn the risen dough out onto a lightly flouted board and divide the dough into 2 pieces. While you work with one piece, cover the other with a dry towel. On a lightly floured board, roll the first piece into a 1-foot-long even log, then slice it crosswise into twelve 1-inch pieces (each weighing about 1-1/2 ounces). Put the pieces on one side of the board, cut side down and not touching; cover with a dry cloth. Roll out and slice the remaining dough; cover the second batch of dough pieces.
Working with one piece at a time and leaving the rest covered, roll out the first piece of dough, as illustrated here, into a 4-inch circle with evenly thin edges and a puffy 1-inch belly button in the middle. Try not to use any additional flour, as the bun can then become difficult to pleat together. Put 1 heaping, compressed tbsp of filling on top of the belly button, then pleat and twist the bun shut as illustrated. If you are baking the buns, put the finished bun, pleated side down, on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper Shape and fill the remaining buns, one at a time, placing them on the baking sheet with 1-1/2 inches between them. If you are steaming the buns, put each one, pleated side down, on its own 2-inch square of parchment, then position them 1-1/2 inches apart on the baking sheet. For a full batch of dough and filling, you will need 2 baking sheets to allow for the spread.
Lightly brush the tops and upper sides of the buns with the egg wash. To decorate, sprinkle a dusting of sesame seeds on top. Let the buns rise, uncovered, in a warm (70 to 85°F) spot until they are half again their original size, 1 to 1-1/2 hours. If your kitchen is very cold, settle yourself in for a longer rise.
To bake the buns:
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Move the racks to divide the oven evenly into thirds. (if you are doing a half-recipe on one baking sheet, arrange a single rack in the middle of the oven.) Bake the buns until golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Midway through baking, to ensure even coloring, quickly rotate the trays from front to back and from the upper rack to the lower If you are baking the buns in advance for reheating later, bake them only to a light gold; they will pick up a bit more color when rewarmed. Let the buns cool to room temperature, then wrap and refrigerate them if you are holding them more than 6 to 8 hours. Let come to room temperature before rewarming. Reheat in a preheated 250°F oven until thoroughly hot, about 5 to 6 minutes.
To steam the buns: Bring ample water for steaming to a boil over moderately high heat. Arrange the buns on their parchment squares and 1 inch apart on steaming racks. Steam the buns for 10 minutes, adjusting the heat so the steam gushes heartily around the buns. Rotate the tiers carefully midway through steaming. Steam them for 2 to 3 minutes longer if you are steaming several tiers at a time. If you are steaming the buns in advance, put them aside to cool to room temperature. Seal and refrigerate if you wish to hold them for more than 6 to 8 hours; let come to room temperature before resteaming. Reheat over gentle steam, each bun still on its parchment square, until thoroughly hot, about 8 minutes.
Serve the buns hot, either on a platter of contrasting color or nested prettily in a woven bamboo tray.