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Capuni Chini 'i Castagne

DIRECTIONS

Preparing fresh chestnuts for this stuffing is very labor-intensive. There is, however, no difference in the taste when canned ones are used instead. If the canned ones are unavailable to you, or if you have a chestnut harvest of your own, observe the following process.
With a small, sharp, pointed knife, incise a cross on the rounded side of each chestnut. This is done so that they will not explode while roasting. Roast the chestnuts in a 375° oven for 10 minutes. When they are cool enough to handle, shell them.
Very often the inner shell sticks to the nut. In order to remove the inner shell, blanch the chestnuts in boiling water for two minutes. Run them under cold water to cool them quickly and remove this inner shell. There is no harm done if any of the chestnuts break, but all of this inner shell must be removed.
Now continue to cook the chestnuts either in boiling water or steam for 30 to 40 minutes until they are tender. Drain them thoroughly. The preparation up to this point can be done the day before they are to be used.
If you are using canned chestnuts, the only preparation is that they be drained thoroughly.
The crop of the capon is stuffed with mushrooms and bread crumbs to offer some diversity. Clean the mushrooms with a mushroom brush. Do not soak them. If dried mushrooms are used, reconstitute them.
Slice the mushrooms in sixths or eighths. Place the olive oil in a skillet on high heat until it is almost smoking. Add the mushrooms. Salt. Sauté until their liquid has begun to evaporate. Turn off the heat to avoid splattering or a fire and add 1/4 cup of cognac. Carefully turn the heat back on and cook until the alcohol has evaporated and the remaining liquid begins to thicken. Turn off the heat and add the toasted bread crumbs, mixing them well into the contents of the skillet. Turn the mixture out into a bowl. When it is cooled, add 1 beaten egg.
Meanwhile, prepare the capon for stuffing. Remove the two pieces of fat from either side of the opening of the cavity. Place this fat in a small pot on very low heat to render. Be sure it doesn't burn. This rendered fat will be used later in the gravy.
Rinse the capon thoroughly under running water. Pat the outside dry and stuff the inside with a wad of paper towels or a dish towel to dry it as well.
While the capon is drying, preheat the oven to 375° and prepare the chestnut stuffing. Place the cooked chestnuts in a bowl and mash them to a lumpy consistency. Mix in the grated cheese, 3 beaten eggs, and black pepper.
Remove the towels from inside the bird, turn it over to breast down, and stuff the crop with the mushroom stuffing. Sew this opening shut with needle and thread.
Turn the bird over breast up. Arrange the ends of the legs in that band of skin. If it is not provided, tie them together. Stuff the main cavity with the chestnut stuffing. Transfer the capon onto a roasting rack in an oven pan. If you do not own a roasting rack, take about a foot of heavy-duty aluminum foil, squeeze it into the shape of a rolling pin, and join the ends to form a doughnut. Perhaps you will need two of these, but in any case, it will serve the same purpose as a roasting rack--to keep the capon out of the pan juices.
Cover the top of the capon with pancetta. Make sure to put a piece over the opening where the stuffing is. Place the bird in the oven. Cook it for three hours or 20 minutes to the pound.
When the pancetta has become well done, remove it, for it has given up all of its flavor. At this point, baste the capon with the white wine. If you feel it is necessary later on to baste it again, use water.
As soon as the capon is placed in the oven to begin roasting, prepare the stock for the gravy. Place the neck, liver, heart, giblets, carrot, celery, onion, parsley, salt, and peppercorns in a pot with one quart cold water. Bring it slowly to a boil, skimming off any scum which rises to the top. When it boils, turn down the heat, cover, and simmer for one-half hour. Strain the stock through a fine mesh strainer and decrease it using your favorite method. Reserve three cups of the decreased stock for the gravy.
When the capon is ready, place it on a heated serving platter in a warm place to rest for 30 minutes. This is done so that the juices which have collected in the cavity during the cooking return to the meat. While the capon is resting, prepare the gravy.
Remove and decrease the pan juices. If anything has stuck to the bottom of the pan, use a little water and a spatula over low heat to scrape these bits free.
Place 3 tablespoons of the rendered fat in a heavy skillet. Set heat to low. When the fat is hot, but by no means smoking, sprinkle in the flour. Whisk the flour and fat into a roux. Cook until it is a rich brown color. Whisk constantly and do not allow it to burn.
Add the white wine a little at a time, whisking it well into the roux to keep a smooth consistency. Be sure that all of the alcohol has evaporated or there will he a bitter finish in the gravy. (If in the end this is the case, the gravy may be saved by adding a little sugar and allowing it to boil freely for a minute or two.)
Now whisk in the pan juices, again a little at a time. Finally, whisk in the stock in the same manner, but you will notice at some point that the danger of lumps has passed.
Pour the gravy into a saucepan. Check the salt and pepper and add two tablespoons of cognac. Let it simmer uncovered until after the capon has rested and been carved. Place it in a gravy boat and bring it, together with the capon, to the table.