A decade ago, purchasing baking chocolate was simple, and bakers had only three choices—unsweetened chocolate, semisweet chocolate or chocolate chips. But times have changed, and we now have a plethora of very different chocolates to stir into our holiday sweets. Here’s everything you need to know about them.

GUIDE TO BAKING WITH CHOCOLATE

Milk chocolate contains milk solids along with cocoa solids and cocoa. Although it is excellent eaten out of hand, it is not often used in dough and batter. Milk chocolate baking pieces are often called upon to add texture and flavor to cheesecakes, scones and muffins.

Semisweet chocolate is the go-to ingredient for all-purpose baking. Use it in cookies, brownies, cakes and pies.

Bittersweet chocolate contains less sugar than semisweet chocolate, so it has a more assertive chocolate flavor. The cacao content in bittersweet chocolate varies from 35 percent to well over 80 percent—and this is where it gets a bit complicated. When you wish to add intensity to your chocolate recipes using bittersweet chocolate, follow these rules:

• Chocolates labeled 62 percent cacao may be used interchangeably with semisweet chocolate.

• Chocolates that possess a cacao content exceeding 62 percent may adversely affect many recipes. For that reason, it is best to use these intense chocolates only in baked goods developed specifically for their use.

Unsweetened baking chocolate contains only cocoa butter and cocoa solids. The lack of sugar gives unsweetened baking chocolate powerful chocolate flavor, so it is used only for baking. This type of chocolate is not interchangeable with other varieties.

Unsweetened cocoa powder provides the most concentrated chocolate flavor of all. Cocoa powder contains no fat—only cocoa solids. Use it in baked goods that call specifically for unsweetened cocoa powder.

• Dutch-process cocoa powder—preferred in European-style recipes for its mild flavor and dark color—has been treated with an alkali, which

reduces cocoa’s natural acidity. Because it is neutral, it will not react with baking soda. Use it only in recipes leavened with baking powder.

White chocolate contains cocoa butter but none of the solids, so it does not taste like chocolate at all. Although it is sensitive to melting temperatures, it may be used for dipping and baking. Recipes calling for white chocolate usually call for less sugar because white chocolate is quite sweet.

STORING CHOCOLATE: Be sure to store chocolate in a cool, dark place—away from strong-smelling foods. Chocolate absorbs odors quickly, so chocolate stored near onions, garlic or strong cheeses will begin to smell and taste like onions, garlic and strong cheeses.

Try our Chocolate Caramel Thumbprint Cookies recipe.